A soggy day in Burtonport

Before we go there - here's an archive pic of Brendan McGloin from Bundoran working on his High Cross, modelled on  the 9th century one from Clonmacnoise. Pretty remarkable work, and is now in Portland, Oregan. Nationwide film can be seen at 'High Cross' on YouTube -  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3nYediXGvwY

If you plan to stay in the old coastguard station in Burtonport, bring an umbrella

Minimalist playground in Burtonport. Like the statue - you'll have to visit to see the front! As for the harbour area, couldn't get the phone camera to work in the rain . .

Burtonport.
At first glance, not too promising as the rain is whipped around by the wind on this May morning. There isn't even a vista of heaving Atlantic waves as a respite from a close encounter with the elements. Hardly surprising - this place was chosen because it offers shelter for boats, not the sight of spectacular waves crashing them against the rocks.
A pillar on the pier offers some shelter, and the chance to enjoy that thrill of freshness on a western coastline. But there's no queue forming for the opportunity. The odd car comes and goes, probably to take another look at the eejit standing with the skimpy coat on the pier. That's about it for the port area itself.
It's been years since I was in Burtonport, or across to Arranmore Island. Time for some drippy familiarisation as I wait for VB and the lift to the next destination. A rock has a plaque recalling two sea tragedies from the 1970s, both still recent when I started with the Derry People and Donegal News in 1978. A statue of the Virgin Mary nearby. A demountable with the legend 'Festival Office'. A nearby building with a paper sheet in the window saying we're closing and thanks for your custom. It's dated 2004.
But there are stirrings of life around. The ferry to Arranmore brings in some traffic - later in Bunbeg I meet a serviceman from Ramelton who was on the ferry at 7.30am this morning, and wasn't alone. There's smoke rising from the chimney of the Lobster Pot, a pub which does seafood. In the window of another building there's a neon sign flashing about coffee. At first glance it looks like it wasn't disconnected when a cafe moved on several years ago. But no. Inside there's a big space, a counter, a heater, a local woman volunteering from a community group and a display of art works. And tea, coffee and chocolate, including Tunnock's Teacakes.
Tuesday morning in Burtonport is looking up.
And it gets busier. An Englishman who moved to Kilclooney near Ardara years ago arrives, saying he's been taking an art class with a local artist. Then somebody's delivering something.
There's a visitors' book, and 'best wishes' cards. This place is a community initiative and it opened its doors over the May Bank Holiday weekend. Initiative, self-help - certainly what we're looking for these days. Okay, there's no sign of coachloads yet, and maybe it's up against it, but best wishes are in order. Perhaps they should link up with the new 'Daniel O'Donnell' museum/display which we spotted going through Dungloe. Seems it's been busy since its recent opening. . .
An English couple also struggling through the drizzle ("it was good enough when we started") say that the big ruin just off the road is the former coastguard place. Seems it was destroyed during the War of Independence, with the ivy-clad walls still there to tell the tale. In the community exhibition I spotted a photo of a monument to a local moment in Irish history - apparently the first action in the War of Independence, an action to rescue two IRA men.
The big house on the left on the way up to the paper shop and garage is, of course, where the Screamers used to live. Those that followed included another group who, as far as I remember, dressed in 19th century clothing and were the source of further conjecture about what happened behind closed doors. The house is an impressive size but looks empty.

Atlantis House in the rain, former home of the Screamers, who arrived in 1974. Have one of Jenny James' books on that period - interesting read. They moved to Colombia and suffered tragedy later with the death of Tristan James at the hands of 'leftist rebels'

Okay, I did little more than get out into the rain, walk to the paper shop, go back and have tea and a Tunnock cake. And a few conversations. I got pretty damp. I bought a present, a little artwork by Emily Bazeley 'The Fairie Tailor', handmade in Donegal from 100% natural materials. Number 78. www.faerie-tailor.com It's "Rose and Lily Petal Ballgown fit for the Midsummer', a little dress of leaves hanging from a tiny wire hanger attached to a twig, all in a light box and at a very reasonable price. I took some pictures.
All in all, I had a pretty good time.

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More about Burtonport, or even Burton Port, or even Ailt an Chorrain (have to look that up), from Wikipedia -

Napper Tandy landed a French force just across the way at Rutland Island. It didn't help.
Peadar O'Donnell (1893 - 1886) was born there - among other things, a novelist worth reading, from what I remember. Islanders, Adrigoole. Years ago I gave a biography of Peadar to the great fiddle Danny O'Donnell from Dungloe. Not only did he remember Peadar, he recalled Peadar's father and uncle playing fiddles at a house party in his youth.

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One of my favourite books is The Buildings of Ireland: North West Ulster by Alistair Rowan (Penguin: 1979). Because he wasn't working for the tourist board, Alistair could give his own impression of the areas, towns and villages he was dealing with. Falcarragh probably wasn't particularly pleased with the one-line description - "A straggling village in the heart of the Donegal Gaeltacht, with an Irish summer college." I like his description of Ramelton, which at the same time doesn't pull any punches about the county generally - "Ramelton is one of the few towns in Donegal that is large enough and sufficiently urban in character to justify a peregrination." I knew I was up to something in Burtonport this morning . . .
Burtonport, which he calls Burton Port, doesn't delay him unduly. He notes it was developed as part of the fishery there by Colonel Conyngham in later c18. When the herring left, Burton Port 'dwindled in importance'. He speaks of "a seven-bay, three-storey stuccoed classical HOTEL and a large late c18 grain store of four storeys, derelict at the time of writing". Not sure if I spotted those. He likes Templecrone Parish Church, about four kilometres from the village, a T-plan Gothic church on the shore opposite Cruit Island (where the fiddler Danny O'Donnell and the composer of the 'Homes of Donegal', Master McBride, are buried). He continues; "It is the perfect seaside Catholic church, brightly painted in black and white, with big Y-traceried windows. The inside is simple but light and airy." Alistair deals separately with Rutland Island, formerly Inishmacadurn, and the great herring fishery which ended in disaster. Good story, of herring mysteriously disappearing and then a sand storm half burying the buildings on the island. . .

'KNOW YOUR DONEGAL' QUIZ  - okay, where is it?? Clue - not far from the old coastguard station in Burtonport.  And that's a prancing horse to the right, while other scenes are from the LeBrocquy illustrations for the Thomas Kinsella version of The Tain (as seen on the floor of the Verbal Arts Centre in Derry, not to mention the book of course). But you better be quick!

Welcome to Donegal! (on behalf of the organising committee)

'So open your eyes wide as I take you to the very core of my fantasies, utopias and dreams, without which nothing of any lasting effect is achieved in this world' - The Eye of the Ventriloquist, Paul Chatenoud, published recently by Les Cygn&s, www.lescygnes.fr

Paul, Frenchman, Donegal man, philosopher, opera lover and B&B operator, has the famous 'Green Gate' B&B outside Ardara. Everyone should stay there sometime.

I've often remarked (to myself) that Donegal is a wonderful county, and isn't it strange that there doesn't seem to be a guide to it. I know I will now find three guides over the next week. Anyway, it's time to start some jottings en route to 'The Insider's Guide to Donegal'. 

Well, I thought it was, but here are some pics I haven't figured how to move to a more appropriate spot in the blog -

A clatter of old stones near Culdaff the day before yesterday

A bit of a stone retrieved from the top of Everest by the first person from Donegal to get there,  adventurer and fiddler Humphrey Murphy, a Dubliner domiciled right beside an interesting and peaceful monastic site on the shores of Lough Swilly at Killydonnell, not far from Ramelton.

A nice wee scene near Dunfanaghy on the way to another classic beach, Marble Hill, which we used to visit as children. Think Dad may actually have worn a hankerchief on his head, although I could be imagining it . . .

My late mum Kathleen McGinley, originally from fiddle country between St Johnston and Raphoe.

I'm going to start with Raphoe, my home town and the omphalos of Donegal, with the mysterious stone circle that was at the bottom our garden (actually, it was to the back of the house and the garden to the front, but never mind). But first here are some personal recommendations off the top of the head.

SIGHTS - top end of Donegal (northern half, to those geographically inclined)

Start in Letterkenny (if you are anywhere else in Donegal, drive immediately to Letterkenny)

Beltony Stone Circle (yes, another mention so soon, but we have to start somewhere). About two miles from Raphoe. A good few stones in a circle on a spot with fine views and close to where some of Ireland's High Kings came from.

Burt (almost at the border with Derry, ancient capital of Donegal) - the Grianan of Aileach. Another ancient monument but you can walk along the walls of this one and enjoy spectacular views over Donegal, Derry and Tyrone (probably Crete too).

Burt - the Church of St Aenghus. You'll see it on the way to the sun fort just mentioned. Ireland's building of the millennium, designed by Liam McCormick.

Derry - well, at the Derry Journal we've just had a booklet called '50 Great Things to Do in Derry' and included several visits to Donegal. You have to go along The Walls, check out St Columb's Cathedral, the Bogside murals, Free Derry Museum, Tower Museum, the new Peace Bridge of course, and lots more

Lisfannon beach - on the way from Derry or Burt to Buncrana. Lived in Fahan for four years so a personal favourite. Hello George, Bernie and family!

Buncrana, the walk to Stragill - park in the carpark opposite the swimming pool and head along the seafront and right along the lovely shore walk. History beckons - Wolfe Tone, Fr Hegarty and the lot. If the tide's out you can go even further than the end of Stragill beach (that far is about two and a half miles, healthy stuff here)

Carndonagh - the High Cross, at the top of the town when you're coming from Buncrana over the mountain

Culdaff stuff - get Neil McGrory's book at McGrory's in Culdaff and potter around

Malin Head - Ireland's most northerly point, and usually one of the windiest places in the country. Maretello Tower there (a good idea would be a trip to all the Martello Towers in Donegal - they're in all the scenic spots)

Northburgh in Greencastle - big ruin, evidence of the Norman presence and going all the way back to 1305. Haven't been there for years but presume it hasn't collapsed yet (you could be the one - last victim of the Normans in Donegal)

Beach at Ballyliffen - one of the greats. You could add in Rossnowlagh near Ballyshannon, especially at dusk or later; Silver Strand, probably the most romantic of the lot, near Glencolumbkille; Five Finger Strand, on the road from Rathmullan to Portsalon, which locals will tell you was once called the Second Greatest Beach in the World; and lots more

OUTDOOR BATHS OF DONEGAL - a project which seems set to attract some attention is the documentation of the outdoor baths of Donegal, as the title suggests. A recent trip to the charming little wood beside the hostelry Carr's of the Diamond, near Ramelton, proved particularly rewarding. There are examples on both sides of the lane. The one above has a rare feature, the 'half roof'.

Tucked away in the corner at the entrance of the lane to the 'Bluebell Wood' near Ramelton is this bath.

Other sights in Inishowen, which is the big peninsula north of Buncrana and Derry, include the waterfall near Clonmany, Mamore Gap, the Moville to Greencastle walk (past the homes of playwright Brian Friel and Nobel Peace Prize winner John Hume) etc etc, should be a grant for this . . and we haven't even got anywhere near the rest of the north of Donegal, including the jewel that is Ramelton, not to mention the wesht coast or the south-west of Donegal yet . . .

But before we do, here's

TEN INTERESTING DONEGAL PUBS *not including music bars (see separate section below)

For many reasons, pubs can be quiet at times these days. If you don't mind that, or if you're visiting at the weekend or during the tourist season, here are a few ideas -

Nancy's, Ardara - just spent the Cup of Tay festival playing there with Denise Boyle, Ted Ponsonby and lots more. You can see the Pearly Gates from here on a good day.

The Glen Bar, Glen, Carrigart - forgot to mention the beach at Glenree earlier. Get to it from Glenree across the dunes for maximum effect, but it's probably trespassing and you can access it more easily by taking a left just before going into Downings. Massive beach. But anyway, the Olde Glen Bar. Another happy hunting ground. Got the accolade of Best Pub in Ireland (or something similar) from the best general guide to food and accommodation in Ireland, Georgina Campbell's. Restaurant is popular too. 

Conway's Ramelton - thatched, big fire in winter

Biddy's, Glencolumbkille

Iggy's, Kincasslagh

Hudai Beag's, Bunbeg, Gweedore

The Glen Tavern aka Cormac Dinny's, a few miles from Glenties

Wine Bar, Ramelton. Okay, not strictly speaking a pub, more an experience, with proprietor and music connoisseur James McDaid

Carr's of the Diamond, with Joe Buchanan, at Ballyare near Ramelton

Brennan's, Bundoran

SOME MUSIC BARS IN DONEGAL

McGrory's - Neil and John are both musicians, Neil's wife Roisin is too. Trad sessions every Friday night, also Tuesday at least during the summer. Backroom Bar could have anyone from the Henry Girls to Arlo Guthrie. Accommodation, food, drink and music - what more could a body want?

Bridge Bar, Ramelton - good class of band on Saturday nights. Henry McCullough back again recently, great night. Sunday night is Nasty and the Fantastics, great jam session (Slovakian fiddle player there last night). Probably other stuff during summer.

Wine Bar, Ramelton - James McDaid, patron of the arts

McGinley's Bar, Letterkenny - seven nights a week, methinks

Patsy McGranaghan's, Raphoe - Thursday night trad/singalong, going for years because everyone enjoys it

There are lots more, but that's what springs to mind. Now, some trad spots -

Flaherty's, Buncrana - trad Wednesday nights since time immemorial. Tom Byrne (accordion/mouth organ), guitarist/singer (sometimes Michael Gallanagh, Ciaran O'Kane) and frequently myself on fiddle at the moment

Rodden's, Buncrana - great place for a tune, we're there on Sunday nights as Hilary tries to build it up for the summer

McGinley's, Letterkenny, Tuesdays night I think (check that one); Teach Bhillie, Gortahork, Tuesday nights; Hudai Beag's, Gweedore, Monday nights all year, think more in summer etc; Glen Tavern, near Glenties, usually Saturday nights if the Campbells get the fiddles out; Highlands Hotel, Glenties, Thursday nights; more sessions around, not so sure of the south or south-west at the moment. Waterloo Street in Derry has miked up sessions most nights of the week. Sandinos, Derry, Sunday afternoons. 

QUICK SIGHTS IN REST OF DONEGAL

Slieve League, Teelin, near Carrick - must see, seacliffs reputedly the tallest in Europe (well, depends  how you measure them. But anyway, about three times the height of the Cliffs of Moher). Call into the coffee shop on the way back (or the way there if you prefer)

Silver Strand, near Glencolumbkille - already mentioned. Reminder of that fine book on Donegal, The Secret Places of Donegal, by John M. Feehan (1988), must dig it out. Nice bit on Silver Strand in it. Also funny visit to Fanad. 

Glengesh Pass - on road from Ardara to Glencolumbkille and Carrick. Descent into Glen is also magical.

Maghera Caves - road to it takes in the waterfall and lots of fine scenery. Big beach. 

So it goes (Desert Island Discs last Friday - Tim Minchin chose Vonnegut as his book for the island).