Welcome to Donegal! (on behalf of the organising committee)

'So open your eyes wide as I take you to the very core of my fantasies, utopias and dreams, without which nothing of any lasting effect is achieved in this world' - The Eye of the Ventriloquist, Paul Chatenoud, published recently by Les Cygn&s, www.lescygnes.fr

Paul, Frenchman, Donegal man, philosopher, opera lover and B&B operator, has the famous 'Green Gate' B&B outside Ardara. Everyone should stay there sometime.

I've often remarked (to myself) that Donegal is a wonderful county, and isn't it strange that there doesn't seem to be a guide to it. I know I will now find three guides over the next week. Anyway, it's time to start some jottings en route to 'The Insider's Guide to Donegal'. 

Well, I thought it was, but here are some pics I haven't figured how to move to a more appropriate spot in the blog -

A clatter of old stones near Culdaff the day before yesterday

A bit of a stone retrieved from the top of Everest by the first person from Donegal to get there,  adventurer and fiddler Humphrey Murphy, a Dubliner domiciled right beside an interesting and peaceful monastic site on the shores of Lough Swilly at Killydonnell, not far from Ramelton.

A nice wee scene near Dunfanaghy on the way to another classic beach, Marble Hill, which we used to visit as children. Think Dad may actually have worn a hankerchief on his head, although I could be imagining it . . .

My late mum Kathleen McGinley, originally from fiddle country between St Johnston and Raphoe.

I'm going to start with Raphoe, my home town and the omphalos of Donegal, with the mysterious stone circle that was at the bottom our garden (actually, it was to the back of the house and the garden to the front, but never mind). But first here are some personal recommendations off the top of the head.

SIGHTS - top end of Donegal (northern half, to those geographically inclined)

Start in Letterkenny (if you are anywhere else in Donegal, drive immediately to Letterkenny)

Beltony Stone Circle (yes, another mention so soon, but we have to start somewhere). About two miles from Raphoe. A good few stones in a circle on a spot with fine views and close to where some of Ireland's High Kings came from.

Burt (almost at the border with Derry, ancient capital of Donegal) - the Grianan of Aileach. Another ancient monument but you can walk along the walls of this one and enjoy spectacular views over Donegal, Derry and Tyrone (probably Crete too).

Burt - the Church of St Aenghus. You'll see it on the way to the sun fort just mentioned. Ireland's building of the millennium, designed by Liam McCormick.

Derry - well, at the Derry Journal we've just had a booklet called '50 Great Things to Do in Derry' and included several visits to Donegal. You have to go along The Walls, check out St Columb's Cathedral, the Bogside murals, Free Derry Museum, Tower Museum, the new Peace Bridge of course, and lots more

Lisfannon beach - on the way from Derry or Burt to Buncrana. Lived in Fahan for four years so a personal favourite. Hello George, Bernie and family!

Buncrana, the walk to Stragill - park in the carpark opposite the swimming pool and head along the seafront and right along the lovely shore walk. History beckons - Wolfe Tone, Fr Hegarty and the lot. If the tide's out you can go even further than the end of Stragill beach (that far is about two and a half miles, healthy stuff here)

Carndonagh - the High Cross, at the top of the town when you're coming from Buncrana over the mountain

Culdaff stuff - get Neil McGrory's book at McGrory's in Culdaff and potter around

Malin Head - Ireland's most northerly point, and usually one of the windiest places in the country. Maretello Tower there (a good idea would be a trip to all the Martello Towers in Donegal - they're in all the scenic spots)

Northburgh in Greencastle - big ruin, evidence of the Norman presence and going all the way back to 1305. Haven't been there for years but presume it hasn't collapsed yet (you could be the one - last victim of the Normans in Donegal)

Beach at Ballyliffen - one of the greats. You could add in Rossnowlagh near Ballyshannon, especially at dusk or later; Silver Strand, probably the most romantic of the lot, near Glencolumbkille; Five Finger Strand, on the road from Rathmullan to Portsalon, which locals will tell you was once called the Second Greatest Beach in the World; and lots more

OUTDOOR BATHS OF DONEGAL - a project which seems set to attract some attention is the documentation of the outdoor baths of Donegal, as the title suggests. A recent trip to the charming little wood beside the hostelry Carr's of the Diamond, near Ramelton, proved particularly rewarding. There are examples on both sides of the lane. The one above has a rare feature, the 'half roof'.

Tucked away in the corner at the entrance of the lane to the 'Bluebell Wood' near Ramelton is this bath.

Other sights in Inishowen, which is the big peninsula north of Buncrana and Derry, include the waterfall near Clonmany, Mamore Gap, the Moville to Greencastle walk (past the homes of playwright Brian Friel and Nobel Peace Prize winner John Hume) etc etc, should be a grant for this . . and we haven't even got anywhere near the rest of the north of Donegal, including the jewel that is Ramelton, not to mention the wesht coast or the south-west of Donegal yet . . .

But before we do, here's

TEN INTERESTING DONEGAL PUBS *not including music bars (see separate section below)

For many reasons, pubs can be quiet at times these days. If you don't mind that, or if you're visiting at the weekend or during the tourist season, here are a few ideas -

Nancy's, Ardara - just spent the Cup of Tay festival playing there with Denise Boyle, Ted Ponsonby and lots more. You can see the Pearly Gates from here on a good day.

The Glen Bar, Glen, Carrigart - forgot to mention the beach at Glenree earlier. Get to it from Glenree across the dunes for maximum effect, but it's probably trespassing and you can access it more easily by taking a left just before going into Downings. Massive beach. But anyway, the Olde Glen Bar. Another happy hunting ground. Got the accolade of Best Pub in Ireland (or something similar) from the best general guide to food and accommodation in Ireland, Georgina Campbell's. Restaurant is popular too. 

Conway's Ramelton - thatched, big fire in winter

Biddy's, Glencolumbkille

Iggy's, Kincasslagh

Hudai Beag's, Bunbeg, Gweedore

The Glen Tavern aka Cormac Dinny's, a few miles from Glenties

Wine Bar, Ramelton. Okay, not strictly speaking a pub, more an experience, with proprietor and music connoisseur James McDaid

Carr's of the Diamond, with Joe Buchanan, at Ballyare near Ramelton

Brennan's, Bundoran

SOME MUSIC BARS IN DONEGAL

McGrory's - Neil and John are both musicians, Neil's wife Roisin is too. Trad sessions every Friday night, also Tuesday at least during the summer. Backroom Bar could have anyone from the Henry Girls to Arlo Guthrie. Accommodation, food, drink and music - what more could a body want?

Bridge Bar, Ramelton - good class of band on Saturday nights. Henry McCullough back again recently, great night. Sunday night is Nasty and the Fantastics, great jam session (Slovakian fiddle player there last night). Probably other stuff during summer.

Wine Bar, Ramelton - James McDaid, patron of the arts

McGinley's Bar, Letterkenny - seven nights a week, methinks

Patsy McGranaghan's, Raphoe - Thursday night trad/singalong, going for years because everyone enjoys it

There are lots more, but that's what springs to mind. Now, some trad spots -

Flaherty's, Buncrana - trad Wednesday nights since time immemorial. Tom Byrne (accordion/mouth organ), guitarist/singer (sometimes Michael Gallanagh, Ciaran O'Kane) and frequently myself on fiddle at the moment

Rodden's, Buncrana - great place for a tune, we're there on Sunday nights as Hilary tries to build it up for the summer

McGinley's, Letterkenny, Tuesdays night I think (check that one); Teach Bhillie, Gortahork, Tuesday nights; Hudai Beag's, Gweedore, Monday nights all year, think more in summer etc; Glen Tavern, near Glenties, usually Saturday nights if the Campbells get the fiddles out; Highlands Hotel, Glenties, Thursday nights; more sessions around, not so sure of the south or south-west at the moment. Waterloo Street in Derry has miked up sessions most nights of the week. Sandinos, Derry, Sunday afternoons. 

QUICK SIGHTS IN REST OF DONEGAL

Slieve League, Teelin, near Carrick - must see, seacliffs reputedly the tallest in Europe (well, depends  how you measure them. But anyway, about three times the height of the Cliffs of Moher). Call into the coffee shop on the way back (or the way there if you prefer)

Silver Strand, near Glencolumbkille - already mentioned. Reminder of that fine book on Donegal, The Secret Places of Donegal, by John M. Feehan (1988), must dig it out. Nice bit on Silver Strand in it. Also funny visit to Fanad. 

Glengesh Pass - on road from Ardara to Glencolumbkille and Carrick. Descent into Glen is also magical.

Maghera Caves - road to it takes in the waterfall and lots of fine scenery. Big beach. 

So it goes (Desert Island Discs last Friday - Tim Minchin chose Vonnegut as his book for the island).