Friday 9 May 2014

Ten great places in Donegal

Came across this list from 2010 -


Here are ten of my ‘must see’ places in Donegal –


Sliabh League


The claim that the cliffs at Sliabh League are the highest in Europe is not uncontested, but by the time you’ve finished drinking in this stupendous views at the edge of the continent you won’t care. Nearest town – Carrick.


One notable omission is, of course, Ramelton, a heritage town which should be on any visitor's itinerary. This pic is taken on a fine road for a walk, down by the 'waterfall' on the fabled River Lennon. Ramelton, 'The Holy City' has everything from James McDaid's wine bar to the Bridge Bar to the meeting house of the founder of US Presbyterianism. It is the hometown of the first captain of the touring All-Blacks, of a legendary Celtic player, of an oilman and banker who was the friend of US Presidents, of the father of a US President, of a famous nurse, of a pioneering newspaperman and many more. And let's not Joe Logan, the ex-Harps midfielder . .

Grianan of Aileach


Panoramic views from the walkway on the walls of this ancient monument, which may have been a heavenly observatory. The church of St Aenghus, at the bottom of the hill in Burt, was Ireland’s building of the millennium and its design is based on the fort.  Nearest town – Derry.

Beltony Stone Circle


My favourite place in Donegal, probably because I grew up right beside it. There’s a presence about this ring of stones ‘high atop the Lagan lap’, older than Stonehenge. See how many stones you can find decorated with cup marks. Nearest town – Raphoe.

Malin Head


Ireland’s most northerly point, so you have to visit. Usually pretty blowy. A Martello tower and a couple of look-out posts mark the spot. Nearest town – Malin village, a past winner of Ireland’s tidiest town.

Silver Strand


On the right day, a little piece of heaven. A sandy cove caressed (or pounded) by Atlantic breakers, with the beach at the bottom of more than a hundred steps. Spectacular setting, just along the coast from Sliabh League. Nearest town – Cashel, Glencolumbkille.

Port


Port is one of those places where a minor road gives way to an even more minor road. Probably Ireland’s most isolated pier, a cove where the tide makes music with the stones and always worth a visit, but particularly on a good day or a bad day. Nearest town – well, Cashel, Glencolumbkille, is over the hill if you have a helicopter.

Glenlough


Glenlough is one of Ireland’s most private places, an hour’s walk from the road down to Port. Frequented in the past by the likes of Rockwell Kent, Dylan Thomas and, of course, Bonnie Prince Charlie. For certain. Don’t expect a lake (or anything really) – it’s the glen of the ducks (but they probably won’t be there either). Nearest village – Dylan used to walk to O’Donnell’s pub in Meenaneary, near Carrick, apparently. He was quite thirsty when he got there.

Tory Island


The kingdom of Patsy Dan. A BBC reporter who’d worked around the world was left quite stunned by Tory – “it’s like going back 3,000 years in half an hour”. Boat trip from Magheraroarty or Bunbeg to an island of legend, ancient remains (including a rare Tau cross) and the occasional globally-endangered corncrake. Nearest town – America (only joking).


Even the trip to work on a winter's morning can be a revelation in Donegal, this time on the road between Ramelton and Letterkenny 

Rosnowlagh beach


A representative of the many glorious beaches around Donegal. Others include Tramore near Downings, with its massive dunes; Five Finger Strand in Inishowen, handy for hiding guns and explosives; the one near Port Salon described in the past as one of the world’s finest; etc etc. Nearly always quiet except on those rare really hot summer days when Donegal digs out its swimming togs and makes the mad annual dash for the beach. Nearest town - Ballyshannon

Glenveagh 



If you are unable to swing a cat in your quotidian existence, visit Glenveagh and swing a full-sized deer. National park. Tour the castle, catch the gardens, go on walks and see a golden eagle, have tea and a scone. Nearest town – Kilmacrenan, or if you insist on something bigger, Letterkenny.


                     "That's not fair, he's already lost an arm!"

Just happened to come across this pic. By sheer coincidence (also looking at mentions of Isaac Butt in Ulysses) here's a piece to match it (though it's not from Dublin)

'Church of the Immaculate Conception', also known as Adam and Eve's, is located on Merchants Quay, Dublin (Franciscans secretly said Mass in the Adam and Eve Tavern, where the popular name of the present church comes from) + "Old as they were, her aunts also did their share. Julia, though she was quite grey, was still the leading soprano in Adam and Eve's, and Kate, being too feeble to go about much, gave music lessons to beginners on the old square piano in the back room." (The Dead); Miss Kate and Miss Julia, based on Joyce's grand aunts, the Misses Flynn who, as their great-nephew put it, 'trilled and warbled in a Dublin church up to the age of seventy'. This was the ancient Franciscan church on the south quays popularly known as Adam and Eve's (from Biography by Peter Costello). 

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