From Derry to Ballyshannon - in 1780

This is a draft from 25th March 2015, no less. Think it could be from an oft-quoted visitor's book - 

A Tour in Ireland, with general observations on the present state of that kingdom in 1776–78 (Author: Arthur Young)

From Bridgeman Images -

Belleek Falls (Falls of Ballyshannon, Co. Donegal), c.1780-90 (oil on canvas)

From Limavady to Derry there is very little uncultivated land.  Within four miles of the latter, rents are from 12s. to 20s.; mountains paid for but in the gross.  Reached Derry at night, and waited two hours in the dark before the ferry-boat came over for me.

August 7.  In the morning went to the bishop’s palace to leave my letters of recommendation; for I was informed of my misfortune in his being out of the kingdom.  He was upon a voyage to Staffa, and had sent home some of the stones of which it consists.  They appeared perfectly to resemble in shape, colour, and smell, those of the Giant’s Causeway.

August 8.  Left Derry, and took the road by Raphoe to the Rev. Mr. Golding’s at Clonleigh, who favoured me with much valuable information.  The view of Derry at the distance of a mile or two is the most picturesque of any place I have seen.  It seems to be built on an island of bold land rising from the river, which spreads into a fine basin at the foot of the town; the adjacent country hilly.  The scene wants nothing but wood to make it a perfect landscape.

August 11.  Left Mount Charles, and passing through Donegal took the road to Ballyshannon; came presently to several beautiful landscapes, swelling hills cultivated, with the bay flowing up p. 59among them.  They want nothing but more wood, and are beautiful without it.  Afterwards likewise to the left they rise in various outlines, and die away insensibly into one another.  When the road leads to a full view of the bay of Donegal, these smiling spots, above which the proud mountains rear their heads, are numerous, the hillocks of almost regular circular forms.  They are very pleasing from form, verdure, and the water breaking in their vales.

Before I got to Ballyshannon, remarked a bleach green, which indicates weaving in the neighbourhood.  Viewed the salmon-leap at Ballyshannon, which is let for £400 a year.  The scenery of it is very beautiful.  It is a fine fall, and the coast of the river very bold, consisting of perpendicular rocks with grass of a beautiful verdure to the very edge.  It projects in little promontories, which grew longer as they approach the sea, and open to give a fine view of the ocean.  Before the fall in the middle of the river, is a rocky island on which is a curing house, instead of the turret of a ruined castle for which it seems formed.  The town prettily situated on the rising ground on each side of the river.  To Sir James Caldwell’s.  Crossing the bridge, stopped for a view of the river, which is a very fine one, and was delighted to see the salmon jump, to me an unusual sight; the water was perfectly alive with them.  Rising the hill, look back on the town; the situation beautiful, the river presents p. 60a noble view.  Come to Belleek, a little village with one of the finest water-falls I remember anywhere to have seen; viewed it from the bridge.  The river in a very broad sheet comes from behind some wood, and breaks over a bed of rocks, not perpendicular, but shelving in various directions, and foams away under the arches, after which it grows more silent and gives a beautiful bend under a rock crowned by a fine bank of wood.  Reached Castle Caldwell at night, where Sir James Caldwell received me with a politeness and cordiality that will make me long remember it with pleasure.